The Wickaninnish Inn

WEST COAST STORM WATCHING

Airlines
January 12, 2001

We could almost taste the salt air whipped up by wild winds and turbulent seas as we set out for Pacific Rim National Park on Vancouver Island's west coast. During the languid summer months, more than 1 million beachcombers, hikers, surfers and kayakers seek solitude along the park's endless shoreline. But for us, the real action begins when autumn fades, sun worshippers pack up and winter sets in. That's when powerful storms thrust thunderous waves against driftwood strewn beaches, and Vancouver Island, a paradise of towering trees and emerald hills, becomes a land of deadly -force, winter gales - and a nirvana for storm watchers.

This new breed of thrill seekers get high on the in-your-face action of ruthless waves hurtling 30 meter breakers against jagged cliffs. They hang onto their hats as monstrous, water laden logs toss about like matchsticks on rising swells. Unforgiving tempests, once death's knell for many shipwrecked mariner, are now billed as glorious events. And finding just the right setting to witness nature unleash her turbulent temper is a thoroughly drenching, yet unforgettable experience.

Pacific Rim National Park is bullet proof when it comes to storms. The federal reserve runs along the Esowista Peninsula between the fishing villages of Tofino and Ucluelet. It is statistically the warmest winter spot in Canada but pays for its balmy weather with up to 328 centimeters of rain annually.

Strong southwesterlies carry moist, warm air masses from the Pacific Ocean that, when confronted by mountain barriers of Vancouver Island, become dense persistent cloud cover.

These are also the beginnings of hurricane force storms that can pummel the area with 50 centimeters of rain a single day. We were in for a treat when snow flurries, rare on the coast, began dancing across the road as we neared Pacific Rim. The winds increased and the snow thickened as we arrived at the Wickaninnish Inn on Chesterman Beach, our stop for the night and in ideal spot for storm watching.

As we passed through the inn's massive cedar doors we caught our breath. The expansive windows of the reception hall exposed the restless Pacific whirling and crashing on the rocks just below. Spray and sea froth race down the glass in salty rivulets. As we glazed though it, we realized we were on the edge of the continent. All that separated us from Japan was this angry, unforgiving sea.

With daylight starting to wane, we hurriedly donned bright yellow rain jackets and ventured out for a beach walk before dinner.Because it was low tide, the newly exposed ocean floor was littered with oysters and clamshells.

Early the next day, we ventured into Tofino for coffee and cinnamon buns at the Common Loaf Bake Shop, a colourful hangout where hippie chic dressed youth trade ideas on esoteric philosophies and gum booted men spin fishing tales. The corner notice board is a glimpse into the west coast culture: services for psychic healing, massage and tarot card readings jostle for space with folks seeking traveling mates and "fasting partners." In the corner, a rainbow clothed woman hawked silver and beaded jewelry.

With breakfast done, we headed for a day on the trails leading through the dense forest to Long Beach, a dramatic half-moon of sandy shores highlighted with bleached, wave smoothed drift logs.

The Rain Forest Trail is a short, easy walk through moss draped branches and one of the best old growth stands in the area. Schooner Trail, a 1 km.boardwalk leading to the north end of Long Beach.

After checking these trails out, we pulled our rain jackets close and hiked up Radar Hill, 126 meters above shore, for panoramic views of Tofino Inlet and the Growlland Rocks. The foundation of World War II radar installation are still evident. From here we saw giant waves far out on the horizon gather power to make furious decent to shore. We anticipated each breaker as our cries of excitement disappeared in the howling wind. Sea spray seeped into our pores. We felt wild, wet and wonderfully alive as we braced ourselves for nature's next assault.